Austrian white wine explained. Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and the Wachau.

A small country with strict standards

Austria produces about one percent of the world's wine, but quality is remarkably high. Vines have grown here since before Roman times, and today almost all vineyards lie in the east of the country, near Vienna, where the land is less mountainous. There are four main wine regions: Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Wien (Vienna), Burgenland and Steiermark (Styria).

Austria's wine laws are among the strictest in Europe. They were rewritten after the 1985 scandal, when some low-end merchants adulterated sweet wines with diethylene glycol. The shock pushed the whole industry toward premium wine, above all dry whites. Twenty-six white and twelve red grape varieties are approved for quality wine. Grüner Veltliner covers about a third of the vineyards, Riesling makes world-class wines along the Danube, Kamp and Krems rivers, and Steiermark in the south is known for age-worthy Sauvignon Blanc.

Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal

For white wine, the region to remember is Niederösterreich, and within it three famous subregions. Kamptal, around the town of Langenlois, has steep terraces above the river Kamp on sandstone, loess and gravel, and gives spicy Grüner Veltliner and flinty Riesling. Kremstal, along the Danube around Krems, is known for rich, round Grüner and dry, mineral Riesling.

The Wachau is a UNESCO World Heritage site with rocky soils and precipitous terraces held up by stone walls. The valley is narrow, so the river reflects sunlight and stores warmth, while cool nights keep aroma and acidity in the grapes. The result is full-bodied Grüner with a white pepper edge and rich, concentrated Riesling. In Kremstal and Kamptal, outstanding vineyard sites can carry the term Erste Lage, used only for dry Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.

How to read an Austrian label

The quality ladder starts with Wein, a basic table wine, and Landwein, a country wine similar to the French Vin de Pays. Next comes Qualitätswein, made from approved varieties in a specified region. You can spot these wines by the red-white-red stripes of the Austrian flag on the capsule.

The Wachau growers have their own system with three levels, based on grape ripeness and alcohol. Steinfeder wines are light and fresh, with a maximum of 11.5% alcohol, and are named after a fragrant local grass. Federspiel wines sit between 11.5 and 12.5% and take their name from falconry. Smaragd, named after the emerald lizard of the vineyards, has at least 12.5% alcohol and is the richest and most age-worthy style. The wines are dry, and noticeable oak flavors are not allowed.

Grüner Veltliner and Riesling at the table

Christy Canterbury MW, who once worked a harvest in the Kamptal, hosts the episode with Andreas Larsson, Best Sommelier of the World 2007. Andreas opens a classic Kamptal Grüner Veltliner from Bründlmayer, full of grapefruit and white pepper, and the pair cook a wafer-thin Wiener schnitzel to go with it. The wine's zesty acidity cuts through the buttery crust, a lesson in why Grüner loves rich, rustic food.

Later, a Thai green curry with prawns, built on lemongrass, ginger and lime, is matched with a richer white. Watch for the tip on chili and alcohol, and for two blind tastings in which Andreas has to place the wines by grape, subregion and quality level.

The experiment: acidity, sugar and food

The episode's do-it-yourself experiment trains your palate. Acidity and sweetness shape a white wine's structure and body, and food can change how you perceive both. Christy and Andreas taste the same Grüner after a bite of lemon and then after a spoonful of sugar. The result surprises even them, and it explains why dessert needs a sweet wine.

Like every WineMasters Class episode, this one helps you prepare for WSET Level 3: it covers regions, grapes, label terms and tasting skills, with food pairings and blind tastings explained along the way.

Go furtherTo explore the estates, vineyards and wines of Austria further, the wein.plus wine guide is a great resource.