Cooking for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Spice, game and a taste of the soil.

Beaucastel and the Perrin family

Château de Beaucastel was established in 1664, and the Perrin family bought it in 1909. Matthieu explains that nine family members now work together, brothers, cousins, his father and uncle, so there is always a Perrin in the vineyard and the cellar. For him, family is key in wine because of its unique relationship with time.

Much of the estate's philosophy goes back to his grandfather Jacques Perrin. He was one of the first in France to farm organically, in the early 1960s, and later moved to biodynamics. Matthieu says the estate has been biodynamic since 1974, long before it was fashionable. People thought Jacques was crazy; the family now calls him a genius.

Jacques also decided to use all the permitted grape varieties at Beaucastel, a choice that still defines the estate. Today the family, now in its fifth generation at the estate, applies the same philosophy in all its vineyards across the Rhône Valley, including Gigondas and Vacqueyras, and Matthieu stresses that tradition matters, but so does having a vision for the future.

Thirteen grapes and a lot of Mourvèdre

Châteauneuf-du-Pape permits 13 grape varieties for its red wines, and Beaucastel is one of the few estates that uses them all. Matthieu says richness comes from diversity. The blend includes a big share of Mourvèdre, a thick-skinned, sun-loving grape that gives backbone, tannin and long aging potential.

The wine in the glass is a 2012 that is starting to show its age. Andreas finds a bold, spicy and expressive red that, as it matures, picks up notes of game and truffle, and Matthieu speaks of earthy, almost woody complexity.

Venison, spice gravy and truffled beans

Andreas sees a dish as an extension of the wine. He coats a loin of venison in blanched black pepper and allspice, so it is spicy but not hot. The spice gravy starts with chicken liver, meat trimmings, vegetables and smoked pork belly, flambéed with gin for its juniper notes, then simmered with beef stock, red wine, ginger, liquorice root, star anise and cinnamon. Creamed white beans with shaved black truffle complete the plate.

A smart tip: cook with the same style of wine you will drink. Andreas does not pour Beaucastel into the pot, but uses a Côtes du Rhône with a similar flavor profile. Matthieu notes that the wine and the food already smell alike, and the truffle creates a bridge between the glass and the soil.

Pairing rules from the Southern Rhône

Matthieu's first rule is simple: "match local wine with local food." In the Southern Rhône that means veal, lots of vegetables and cooking with olive oil rather than butter. Hearty game, lamb, slow-cooked stews and mushroom dishes are also natural partners for Grenache and Mourvèdre blends.

He adds a deeper point. Once a wine is bottled you cannot change it, but you can adapt food as much as you like with spice, salt and texture. Starting from the wine, Andreas agrees, gives much better pairings. Matthieu also pours a prestige rosé Champagne from the family's new project dedicated only to rosé.

The secret bottle

Matthieu then tries to stump Andreas with a white wine from a friend of the family. Andreas finds lemongrass, lime zest, white flowers, ripe peach and slate, along with clear sweetness balanced by acidity, and cooks a Thai-style curry with scallops, coconut milk and fresh herbs. Watch to discover whether he names the wine, and how Matthieu fares in the very first memory game.