The Northern Rhône. The spiritual home of Syrah.

Steep granite slopes and the Mistral

The Northern Rhône vineyards line both banks of the Rhône from Vienne in the north to Valence in the south. The climate is continental but cooled by the Mistral wind, so it is cooler than the Southern Rhône. Many slopes are granitic, and Fredrik Lindfors, Best Sommelier of the Nordics 2017, brings rocks from the region to explain how airy granite soils push roots deep, which also helps vines withstand the wind.

Hermitage has long been one of France's most valued wines; in the 18th and 19th centuries it could outprice Bordeaux. Since the mid-1980s, the region's wines have exploded in popularity, quality and price.

Syrah and Côte-Rôtie

DNA shows that Syrah is the offspring of two French grapes, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche, not a migrant from Persia or Sicily. Its wines range from rich and full-bodied to savory and elegant, often with blackberry, smoky bacon and crushed black pepper, and with leather and truffle as they age.

Syrah may have grown here since Roman times, and Pliny the Elder praised wines from around Vienne. Côte-Rôtie, the roasted slope, named for its sunny south-facing vineyards, makes only red wine from Syrah, though a little Viognier may be blended in. Its two famous sides differ: the Côte Brune has darker schist and iron-rich clay, the Côte Blonde lighter, more granitic soils with sand. Susie Barrie MW and Fredrik taste two Guigal wines from either side and then a blend from Gaillard. Notice how soil seems to change weight, tannin and perfume.

Condrieu and Viognier

Condrieu, just south of Côte-Rôtie, makes white wine exclusively from Viognier, a grape that had nearly disappeared by the 1960s and is now planted worldwide. Its south-facing granite slopes are too steep for tractors and yields are low, so Condrieu is rare and costly to produce. Expect apricot, peach, white flowers and a lush, slightly oily texture, even in dry wines. The hosts taste a Condrieu from François Villard, a former sommelier.

Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Crozes, Cornas and Saint-Péray

Hermitage is a single hill on the east bank, divided into named lieux-dits. Red Hermitage is almost always pure Syrah, though up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne is allowed. It is rich and firmly tannic, often austere when young. White Hermitage, from Marsanne and Roussanne, is dense, long and age-worthy. Marsanne gives body, nuttiness and pear; Roussanne adds acidity, aroma and better ageing. DNA suggests the two are related as parent and offspring, and they form the core of the region's white blends.

Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage offer reds and whites of very variable quality depending on site, so follow good producers; they can be excellent value. Cornas makes powerful Syrah from steep granite terraces behind the town, while sandier soils further south give more approachable wines earlier. Saint-Péray specializes in still and sparkling whites from Marsanne and Roussanne. Fredrik pairs a Saint-Joseph from André Perret with a quick coq au vin, a Lyon classic.

The aroma experiment and blind tastings

How do tasters find so many aromas in a glass? Fredrik turns the set into a bar to show it. Using gin, whisky and a herbal liqueur, he demonstrates how a splash of water or ice releases aromas that strong alcohol can hide. It is an easy exercise to repeat at home to train your nose.

Each host then tastes a Northern Rhône wine blind, one white and one red, working from color, aroma and structure to grape and appellation. See whether they get it right. The red is served with lamb in filo pastry with spiced couscous and olives.