Priorat with fish? Rethinking a big Spanish red.

A sommelier who had to make wine

Franck Massard started as a sommelier at 19, working in Germany and later in the UK. All the theory left him with questions he could not answer, so he bought a small vineyard in 2004 and started making his own wine. His first wine was called Huellas, Spanish for fingerprint: instead of putting his name on the label, he left his mark as a sign of a handmade wine.

He admits his first vintages were a bit wobbly. Choosing the picking date and leading a vineyard team are very different from running a wine list. Today he also makes wine in other parts of Spain, including Albariño and Godello in Galicia, Mencía in Ribeira Sacra and a wine from Terra Alta. Asked why he made the jump, he says he needed to touch the vines, prune them and make the wine himself to really learn it. Andreas, who has helped with blends in Champagne and Bordeaux, admits he is too restless to settle in one place.

Priorat: stony, dry and mountainous

Priorat lies in Catalonia, southwest of Barcelona, and is known for its old vineyards. Franck describes an austere, dry, stony landscape where little grows besides vines, olives and hazelnuts, first planted by Carthusian monks. It is a warm region, but it is also mountainous, so cool nights keep freshness in the grapes.

His Huellas is made only from Garnacha and Cariñena, the local names for Grenache and Carignan. Andreas remembers the Priorat of the 1990s, full of French varieties, extraction and oak, and prefers this supple, pure style. Franck sees the region moving towards lighter wines with less oak, made for drinkability. He also opens a newer no-sulfite Priorat that Andreas finds meaty, peppery and floral.

Cod with a spicy chickpea stew

For the Huellas, Andreas cooks sautéed cod with a stew of chickpeas, pancetta, garlic, smoked paprika, tomato, chicken stock, thyme and bay leaf, plus peppers charred over an open flame and peeled for a smoky sweetness. The fish is cooked skin side down in olive oil and butter.

The pairing shows a useful principle. A firm white fish like cod or hake can carry a rich red when the sauce bridges the gap. Here the Mediterranean herbs, garlic and paprika match the herbal spice of the wine, while the fat from the pancetta softens the last touch of tannin. Franck's own favorite with his Priorat is simply grilled lamb with herbs, but he agrees that a lighter, crisper Priorat with fish is really interesting.

Pairing tips for Priorat at home

If your Priorat is young, rich and dark-fruited, think of Mediterranean flavors: thyme, rosemary, garlic, smoked paprika, olives and grilled meats. Lamb is classic, but a meaty fish with a robust sauce, chickpeas or beans works too. Keep chili moderate, as high heat makes alcohol and tannin feel harsher. A young bottle benefits from decanting and from serving slightly cool rather than at warm room temperature.

And remember Franck's general approach: great food with great wine will work, and great company makes it work even better.

The mystery bottle

Then Franck brings out his favorite wine made by someone else, served blind. Andreas finds a big, intense red with black fruit, wild herbs, tobacco and vanilla, and raids the fridge for a grilled Iberico pork rack with chorizo butter and a white bean and olive salad. Watch to see if he can identify the bottle, and how Franck does in the food and wine memory game.