Red Burgundy explained. Pinot Noir and the golden slopes of the Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir and the monks of Burgundy

Pinot is an ancient variety, thought to be more than 2,000 years old, and only a few generations removed from wild vines. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are all mutations of the same family. In the Middle Ages, Cistercian monks recorded how different plots gave different wines. From their work come two key ideas: climats, precisely defined plots with their own soil and microclimate, and clos, climats enclosed by walls. The famous Clos de Vougeot was walled by the monks in the 14th century and still stands today.

In this episode, host Sarah Heller MW and Fredrik Lindfors, Best Sommelier of the Nordics, focus on the Côte d'Or, the golden slopes that run south from Dijon. It is split into the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. They start with a Kir, made the classic way with Aligoté and crème de cassis.

The four levels on the label

Burgundy's pyramid has four steps. Regional wines, such as Bourgogne Rouge, can come from anywhere in Burgundy. Village wines carry the name of a commune, such as Gevrey-Chambertin. Premier Cru wines come from specific, superior climats within a village. At the top, Grand Cru wines come from the most exceptional sites and are labeled with the vineyard name alone.

Pinot Noir is famously transparent to its terroir. The Côte d'Or rests on limestone of different types and hardness, mixed with clay and marl, and the slope, exposure and soil change from one plot to the next. Classic red Burgundy is pale, with red fruit like strawberry, raspberry and cherry, earthy and savory notes, fresh acidity and silky tannins. For value, the hosts point to Bourgogne Rouge and Côte de Nuits-Villages, and to northern villages such as Marsannay and Fixin.

Village by village

The great villages of the Côte de Nuits, from north to south, are Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Flagey-Echézeaux and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Gevrey-Chambertin has the most Grand Crus, nine in total, and is known for structured, powerful wines. Chambolle-Musigny is often called the most elegant, home to the Premier Cru Les Amoureuses. Clos de Vougeot covers about 50 hectares with more than 75 owners, so quality and style vary. Vosne-Romanée, with Flagey-Echézeaux, has eight Grand Crus, including Romanée-Conti and La Tâche. Nuits-Saint-Georges has no Grand Cru but fine Premier Crus.

In the Côte de Beaune, Corton is the only red Grand Cru: rich, tannic and austere in youth. Pommard gives powerful, deep-colored wines with tannic grip, while neighboring Volnay is silky, floral and fragrant. You will also learn about Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains, an everyday blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay.

The experiment: how soils hold water

Why do soils matter so much in Burgundy? In the experiment, Sarah and Fredrik pour water through sand, loess and clay to show how particle size changes drainage, warmth and nutrient supply. There is even a moment when Fredrik plays the role of the vine's roots. Find out which soil drains fastest, why vines dislike wet feet, and which blend of soils vines like best.

Food pairings and blind tastings

Fredrik cooks two dishes. Monkfish wrapped in pancetta with a mushroom and red wine sauce shows how to build bridges so that fish can work with red wine. Roast guinea fowl with morels and plums is matched to a richer, more powerful Burgundy. The hosts discuss weight, salt, creaminess and why mushrooms are such good friends of Pinot Noir.

In the blind tastings, each host challenges the other with a serious bottle, with producers such as Henri Boillot and Joseph Drouhin in the line-up. See how they narrow down village and classification from color, fruit and texture. The episode helps you prepare for WSET Level 3.