Rioja wine explained. Tempranillo, oak and time.

The Ebro valley and the oak tradition

Rioja lies in north-central Spain along the Ebro river and its tributaries. Two mountain ranges shelter it from bad weather in the north and heat from the south, and varied altitudes plus chalk and clay soils create many microclimates. Before the late 19th century, Rioja made mostly young wines. When phylloxera devastated France, merchants from Bordeaux crossed the Pyrenees and brought their knowledge of aging wine in oak.

Host Susie Barrie MW was struck on her first visit by Rioja's contemporary winery architecture, from Ysios to Marqués de Riscal. She is joined by Fredrik Lindfors, Best Sommelier of the Nordics 2017, fresh from the region's famous wine battle.

Tempranillo and its partners

Tempranillo is the backbone of Rioja. It ripens early, has medium to low acidity and smooth tannins, and gives strawberry, spice and tobacco leaf. The cool nights of Rioja's hills help it keep freshness. Traditionally it is blended with three local reds: Mazuelo (Carignan) for color and tannin, Graciano for aroma and freshness, and Garnacha (Grenache) for ripe fruit, alcohol and body. A traditional blend might be about 70% Tempranillo.

In a rare treat, the hosts taste varietal Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha side by side, so you can see exactly what each grape adds to the blend.

Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental

Rioja Alta, the western zone, is cool, so grapes ripen slowly and keep acidity, giving wines with great structure. Rioja Alavesa, north of the Ebro, has the highest elevation and more Atlantic influence, giving fruit-forward, aromatic, lighter wines. Rioja Oriental, formerly Rioja Baja, is the largest, warmest and lowest zone with a Mediterranean influence; most of Rioja's Garnacha grows here, making riper, rounder wines that are lovely to drink young.

For your studies, remember the link between site and style: cooler, higher vineyards keep acidity and give structure and aroma, while the warmer east gives more alcohol and jammier fruit. Fredrik's favorite way to explore all of it is tapas hopping along Calle Laurel in Logroño, where a simple plate of mushrooms fried in olive oil and garlic can be a revelation.

Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva

Rioja's labels tell you how long a wine was aged. A red Crianza is aged for two years, at least one in oak. A Reserva is aged for three years, at least one in oak and six months in bottle. A Gran Reserva, made only in great vintages, is aged at least five years, with at least two in oak and two in bottle. Whites have their own, shorter minimums.

Traditionally, American oak gave Rioja its vanilla and coconut notes, often with long barrel aging; today many producers also use French and other European oak to focus on fruit. White Rioja is mostly Viura (Macabeo), with Malvasía Riojana and Garnacha Blanca, and since 2007 grapes such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo are allowed too. Well-made oaked Viura can age impressively. Some critics feel oak and oxidation were taken too far in the past, so many producers now aim for more subtle oak or lees aging to bring out the grape's natural flavors.

There is also a modern style of Rioja, often from single vineyards or with international grapes, designed to be aged after purchase rather than released ready to drink.

The experiment, the food and the blind tastings

How does sunlight become wine? With vine leaves, boiling water, alcohol and iodine, the hosts show photosynthesis at work and explain why altitude and exposure matter. Fredrik's sunburn makes the point about balance.

Three blind tastings test Susie and Fredrik on oak, age and grape. Find out what clues reveal a wine's aging category. The food is classic too: patatas a la riojana with chorizo, and quail with truffle and morels. The episode helps you prepare for WSET Level 3, with grapes, subregions and label terms explained.