Sicilian wine explained. Native grapes, volcanic slopes and a new reputation.

From quantity to quality

Sicily, Italy's largest island, lies in the Mediterranean very close to Africa. It has been shaped by many cultures, and its most famous wine became the fortified Marsala, in an era focused more on quantity than quality. In the 1980s a few producers changed course, mostly with French varieties. In the 1990s many turned back to native grapes such as Grillo, Catarratto, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese.

The climate is hot and dry, but coastal breezes and large day-to-night temperature swings at altitude cool the vines, and conditions are excellent for organic growing. Host Christy Canterbury MW notes how proudly Sicilian, rather than Italian, the island's winemakers feel.

Mount Etna: Nerello and Carricante

Etna rises to about 3,300 meters, and its vineyards climb to around 1,000 meters. Altitude gives a longer, cooler growing season that keeps acidity in the grapes, while varied slopes and soils of ash and lava create many microclimates. Steep terrain means hand harvesting. Christy brings three Etna soils from different eruptions to show the variety.

Etna Rosso must contain at least 80% Nerello Mascalese, with up to 20% Nerello Cappuccio. Nerello Mascalese, probably a natural cross of Sangiovese and Montonico Bianco, gives pale wines with fresh acidity, red fruit, floral and spicy notes. Marc Almert, Best Sommelier of the World 2019, suggests it to Pinot Noir lovers. Cappuccio adds darker cherry fruit and suppleness. Etna Bianco needs at least 60% Carricante, and Superiore at least 80%; Carricante gives fresh, citrusy, mineral whites with a hint of anise.

Western whites: Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia

Grillo, perhaps Sicily's most famous grape, was the core of Marsala thanks to its high sugar levels. Today it makes full-bodied whites with citrus and a herbal or floral note. Catarratto, the most widely planted variety on the island, was used for Marsala and bulk wine, but at low yields it gives citrusy, mineral wines with a bitter, refreshing finish. Inzolia, called Ansonica in Tuscany, brings floral, nutty notes with apple and apricot. All three are grown mainly in the west.

Cerasuolo di Vittoria: Sicily's only DOCG

In the island's southeast, Cerasuolo di Vittoria blends Nero d'Avola and Frappato. The name means cherry-like, after Frappato's aroma. Nero d'Avola, the most planted red grape, gives deep color, black plum and cherry, and structure. Frappato is light, perfumed and fresh, with low tannin, and adds lift to the blend. Vineyards run from the flat coastal plain to hills of about 350 meters. On its own, Nero d'Avola can be made dense and oak-aged for keeping, or young and fresh for early drinking.

Marc pours a 100% Frappato from Arianna Occhipinti, who released her first wine at 26 and set out to make a more delicate style. It is paired with fresh tuna meatballs with mint, pine nuts and pecorino, proof that fish does not always need a white wine.

The destemming experiment and blind tastings

Hand picking on Etna leads to the experiment: how do sorting and destemming affect wine? The hosts press destemmed grapes and then whole clusters, and compare the juices. Find out why some producers keep stems for perfume and spice, which grapes are most often fermented whole-cluster, and how sorting tables and optical sorters remove unripe or damaged fruit.

Each host then tastes a wine blind, one red and one white from Sicily's native grapes. See how they reason from color, acidity and smokiness to grape and place. The white is paired with a gratinated fish and shrimp stew.