WineMasters Class · WineMasters Class: South West France & Corsica EP:45/48

South West France and Corsica explained. Undiscovered appellations and native grapes.

Bordeaux's neighbors and the island of Corsica are full of little-known appellations and grapes with real character. This study guide follows Sarah Heller MW and Fredrik Lindfors from Cahors to Corsica, with the grapes, rules and styles to remember.

Living in Bordeaux's shadow

The Sud-Ouest covers many small appellations between Bordeaux, the Languedoc, Spain and the Atlantic. Rivers once carried their wines to market through the port of Bordeaux, which protected its own trade with strict rules on wines from the "high country" inland. That is partly why Bordeaux grapes are famous worldwide, while the Southwest's native varieties are not. Sarah compares the region's wines to feral cats: lean, muscular and a bit moody, but often exciting.

For students, the Southwest is a useful lesson in how one grape can show different faces. Malbec is famous in Argentina but was born here, and Tannat, Fer Servadou and the Mansengs are rarely seen elsewhere. Learning their appellations, minimum percentages and typical structures makes them much easier to recognize in a glass.

Cahors and Madiran: Malbec and Tannat

Cahors, about 160 km east of Bordeaux on the river Lot, is probably the birthplace of Côt, better known as Malbec, and was famous for its inky "black wine". After the frost of 1956 wiped out most vineyards, growers replanted with Côt as the main grape. Wines must contain at least 70% Côt, with Merlot or Tannat. Limestone plateau sites, the Causses, give more tannic, long-lived wines, while gravel terraces nearer the river give fruitier ones. Expect plum, blackberry, black cherry and pepper.

Madiran, in Gascony, is the home of Tannat, at least 60% of the blend and often 100%. Warm summers and long, dry autumns are vital, because underripe Tannat is harsh. Destemming and gentle pressing help tame the tannins, but Madiran still needs years in the cellar to show its plum, blackcurrant, licorice and spice.

Fer Servadou and the whites of Jurançon

Fer Servadou is the star of Gaillac, northeast of Toulouse, where it is called Braucol and blended with local Duras and Prunelard, and of Marcillac, where most wines are made entirely from it on steep terraces of iron-rich soils. Expect deep color, firm tannins, red fruit, cassis and pepper.

Jurançon, in the Pyrenean foothills near Pau, is a white appellation built on Gros and Petit Manseng. Jurançon Sec, mainly Gros Manseng, is crisp, lemony and floral. Sweet Jurançon, mainly thick-skinned Petit Manseng, comes from grapes left to shrivel on the vine into November, a process called passerillage, and is labeled Moelleux or the richer Vendange Tardive. The grape's high acidity keeps these sweet wines fresh for decades.

Corsica's Italian accent

Corsica, closer to Tuscany than to mainland France, is the sunniest part of France, with low rainfall and strong winds, so vines are often trained as sturdy bush vines. Long ruled by Pisa and Genoa, the island grows Italian grapes under local names: Nielluccio is Sangiovese, Sciaccarello is Mammolo, and Vermentino is the main white. Patrimonio in the north, on clay and limestone, makes Nielluccio-based reds and rosés and 100% Vermentino whites. Ajaccio, on granite in the southwest, is the home of juicy, peppery Sciaccarello.

The experiment, pairings and blind tastings

In the experiment, Sarah and Fredrik compete to become Master Blender, mixing grapes with very different philosophies before a critic scores the results. Find out who wins.

Fredrik compares an Argentinian Malbec made in concrete eggs with Château du Cèdre Cahors, then cooks a rustic chicken, pork belly and white bean stew. A Jurançon Sec and a Vendange Tardive are tasted side by side. Two blind tastings and a ricotta, spinach and mint cannelloni complete the class, and the tasting logic will help you prepare for WSET Level 3.

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WineMasters Class: South West France & Corsica EP:45/48

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Frequently asked questions

Is Côt the same as Malbec?

Yes. Côt is the traditional name in Cahors, where the grape probably originated. Malbec is the name used internationally, especially in Argentina.

What grape is used in Madiran?

Tannat, which must make up at least 60% of the blend. It gives deeply colored, tannic wines that need time to soften.

What is Nielluccio?

Nielluccio is Corsica's name for Sangiovese. It is the main red grape of the Patrimonio appellation.

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