Tuscany wine explained. Sangiovese, Chianti and the rebels of the Super Tuscans.

Sangiovese country

Tuscany stretches from the Apennine mountains to the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the wine region begins just south of Florence. Despite big differences in soil and climate, most of its great reds share the same grape. Sangiovese gives red cherry, plum and violet aromas with earthy, savory accents, high acidity and firm tannins. With age it adds leather, earth, game and tobacco notes.

Host Christy Canterbury MW opens the episode with the legend of the black rooster, a medieval contest between Florence and Siena over where the Chianti border should lie. The rooster still appears on bottles of Chianti Classico today. Co-host Andreas Larsson, Best Sommelier of the World 2007, brings along a couple of old straw-covered flasks, a reminder of the thin, tart Chianti many people remember, and of how much the region has changed.

Chianti and Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico is the original heartland between Florence and Siena. The vineyards lie on higher ground, so Sangiovese ripens slowly and keeps its acidity. The wines must contain at least 80% Sangiovese, and white grapes have been banned since 2006. There are three quality tiers: Annata, the standard wine; Riserva, aged at least 24 months; and Gran Selezione, the top level, aged at least 30 months and made only from estate-grown grapes.

Chianti DOCG covers a much larger area around the Classico zone and is divided into seven subzones, of which Rufina and Colli Senesi are the best known. Here the minimum is 70% Sangiovese, and a small share of white grapes is still allowed. These wines are mostly meant to be enjoyed young, with sour cherry, raspberry, dried herbs and lots of savory character.

Brunello, Vino Nobile and the Super Tuscans

Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese, locally called Brunello. The warmer climate and the local clone give fuller, more intense wines than Chianti, with cherry, dried herbs, balsamic spice and leather. Brunello has very long minimum aging rules and can age for decades. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is also based on Sangiovese, here known as Prugnolo Gentile. Do not confuse it with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which is made from a different grape in another region.

The Super Tuscans were born from frustration with the DOC rules of the 1960s, which forced producers to blend Sangiovese and kept out wines made from Bordeaux varieties. Rebels such as Sassicaia (first vintage 1968) and Antinori's Tignanello (first made in 1971) were sold as humble vino da tavola yet became some of Italy's most famous wines. In 1992 the IGT category was created to give producers that freedom within the law.

The experiment: where tannins come from

Tannin is a word every student must master. In the experiment, the hosts crush grape stems and skins, add oak, and taste the results to show how different sources of tannin feel in the mouth. Find out why stem tannins can taste harsh and green, why oak tannins are softer, and why white wines usually have so little tannin. There is also a simple tip for softening a young, tannic red.

Food pairings and blind tastings

Sangiovese is a natural partner for tomatoes and roasted meat. Andreas cooks pici al ragù with a Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico and explains why high acidity in a dish can make a high-acid wine taste softer and fruitier. Later, a smoked and grilled Bistecca alla Fiorentina shows how fat and salt tame young tannins.

In the blind tastings, wines from Altesino in Montalcino and Antinori's Tignanello are in the line-up, and there is even a sample of vineyard soil on the table. See how the hosts work out grape, region and style from color, aroma and structure. The episode helps you prepare for WSET Level 3, and as Christy sums it up: "Sangiovese is king!"