Drying grapes before making wine
Appassimento is the Italian word for drying grapes. Instead of crushing the grapes right after harvest, the winemaker lays the best bunches out on racks or in shallow crates in well-ventilated drying lofts called fruttai. There they rest for about three to four months.
During that time the grapes lose a large part of their water, often a third or more of their weight. Sugar, acidity, color and flavor become concentrated, and the grapes develop aromas of raisins, dried cherries and figs.
Valpolicella and its grapes
Amarone comes from Valpolicella, the hills north of Verona in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. The main grapes are local varieties: Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. Corvina, with its thick skins and bright cherry fruit, is the backbone of the blend.
The same grapes also make fresh, light Valpolicella, so the region offers everything from easy everyday reds to some of Italy’s most intense wines.
A happy accident
The original wine of dried grapes in Valpolicella was Recioto, a sweet red wine. According to the story, a barrel of Recioto was left to ferment for too long, until almost all the sugar had turned into alcohol. Instead of a sweet wine, the producers found a dry, powerful and slightly bitter one: amaro means bitter in Italian, and Amarone means “the big bitter one.”
Today Amarone is a dry red wine with high alcohol, often 15% or more, a velvety texture and flavors of dark cherry, chocolate, raisin and spice. It can age for many years.
Recioto, Ripasso and appassimento elsewhere
Next to Amarone, Valpolicella makes sweet Recioto della Valpolicella and Ripasso, a Valpolicella that is refermented on the leftover grape skins of Amarone. Ripasso is often called “baby Amarone”: richer than a normal Valpolicella, but more affordable than Amarone.
The drying technique is now used in other parts of Italy and beyond, and you will see “appassimento” on labels from many regions. In Valpolicella, though, it is a tradition of centuries.
Watch it on screen
In this episode of WineMasters, Sarah Heller MW and Richard Hemming MW explore the Veneto and see the appassimento process up close, from the drying lofts to the cellar, to learn how a happy accident became one of Italy’s most distinctive wines.
Serve Amarone at around 60 to 65°F with braised meat, game, risotto all’Amarone or aged cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano.
Watch the episode · 44 min
WineMasters: Veneto, Italy
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Watch it freeFrequently asked questions
What does appassimento mean?
Appassimento is the Italian technique of drying grapes for several months before fermentation, which concentrates their sugar, acidity and flavor.
Is Amarone sweet?
No. Amarone is fermented until it is dry, but its ripe, concentrated fruit and high alcohol can give an impression of richness. The sweet version is called Recioto.
What is the difference between Amarone and Ripasso?
Amarone is made entirely from dried grapes. Ripasso is a Valpolicella that is refermented on the leftover skins from Amarone, which gives it extra body at a lower price.