A helpful fungus
Noble rot is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. In most conditions it is a problem: in wet weather it becomes grey rot and ruins the harvest. But under the right conditions, it does something remarkable.
The fungus pierces the skins of ripe grapes. Water evaporates through the tiny holes, the grapes shrivel, and sugar, acidity and flavor become highly concentrated. The botrytis also adds its own aromas: honey, apricot, marmalade, ginger and saffron.
Misty mornings and sunny afternoons
Noble rot needs a very specific climate. Humid, misty mornings allow the fungus to spread, and dry, sunny afternoons stop it from turning into grey rot. That is why the great sweet wine regions are often found near rivers or lakes.
In Bordeaux, the cool Ciron river meets the warmer Garonne in Sauternes and Barsac. In Hungary’s Tokaj, the Bodrog and Tisza rivers do the same. In Austria’s Burgenland, the shallow, reed-fringed Lake Neusiedl creates the morning mists that make this one of the best places on earth for noble sweet wine.
Picking berry by berry
Botrytis does not affect all grapes at the same time. Pickers often go through the vineyard several times, sometimes selecting individual berries. The yields are tiny: a whole vine may give no more than a glass of wine.
The juice of these shriveled grapes is so sweet that the yeast struggles to ferment it, and fermentation can take months. The result is a wine with intense sweetness, balanced by vibrant acidity, which is why these wines can age for decades.
Sauternes, Tokaji, TBA and Ausbruch
Each region has its own names. In Bordeaux, the most famous is Sauternes. In Hungary, Tokaji Aszú is made by adding botrytized berries to a base wine. In Germany and Austria, the levels of sweetness are written on the label: Beerenauslese (BA) and, at the very top, Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). Around the town of Rust on Lake Neusiedl, the historic name is Ausbruch.
Serve these wines well chilled, with blue cheese, foie gras or fruit desserts, or, as Stuart Pigott says in the episode, “instead of dessert.”
The Kracher family of Burgenland
In this episode of WineMasters, Anne Krebiehl MW and Stuart Pigott visit the Kracher family on the shores of Lake Neusiedl. Gerhard Kracher learned the craft at a very young age, while his father was terminally ill, and continued the family’s reputation for stunning noble sweet wines.
Today his wines earn top ratings again and again, and he also makes red wines from Blaufränkisch, Austria’s signature red grape.
Go furtherTo explore the estates, vineyards and wines of Burgenland and Austria further, the wein.plus wine guide is a great resource.
Watch the episode · 56 min
WineMasters: Burgenland, Austria
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Watch it freeFrequently asked questions
Is noble rot the same as normal rot?
No. It is the same fungus, Botrytis cinerea, but under the right conditions (misty mornings, dry afternoons) it concentrates the grapes instead of spoiling them. In wet weather it becomes destructive grey rot.
Which wines are made with noble rot?
The best known are Sauternes and Barsac from Bordeaux, Tokaji Aszú from Hungary, and Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Ausbruch from Germany and Austria.
Why are botrytis wines so expensive?
Yields are tiny, grapes are often picked berry by berry in several passes, and in some years noble rot does not develop at all.